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一向出遊前懶得預先規劃行程的我,來到像芝加哥這樣複雜的大城市依然不改積習,匆匆的在出發前往市中心之前才上網看了相關資料…最後整理出一個大概的行程:(一)從旅館開車前往芝加哥捷運 CTA 藍線的終點站 Forest Park,將車停在那裡;(二)搭乘捷運至市中心的 LaSalle 站下車;(三)依照 Chicago Trolley 推薦的城市旅遊行程先步行至 Sears Tower 再考慮是否搭乘該公司的 Double Decker,或是自行步行前往所有景點;(四)環繞市中心一圈後回到 LaSalle 站依原路回到旅館。
這種粗略的行程依照我個人多年來所累積的豐富經驗,通常會導致許多意外的情形,第一種情形就是迷路。果不其然,在開車出發前往 Forest Part 時就馬上迷路了,僅管這時我已經熟悉如何操作車上的 GPS,但因為附近有許多類似的道路名稱,因此還是繞了好大一圈,最後依靠著腦海中模糊的 Google Map 影像,總算是到達了車站。
首先又是一種從來沒看過的停車繳費機,經過一番研讀之後,原來 $3 就可以停 15 小時,遠比 Downtown 隨便都幾十美金的停車費相比,真是便宜許多,這也是為什麼大家總是不建議開車進市中心的因素之一。塞了三美金進去後,取得的收據放在擋風玻璃前,就可以進停車場停車。
停好車,進了車站,這時候才發現原來芝加哥的「捷運」比臺灣的「台鐵」還要老舊,而且 Forest Park 是 CTA 藍線的終點站,因此人煙稀少,車站內外幾乎清一色都是黑人,也有許多蹲在路旁乞討的人,車站內異常的寧靜讓我感受到一股肅殺的氣氛。趕緊找到了售票機,塞了 $5 紙鈔按下 Vendor 鍵買了一張 Transit Ticket,足夠我來回 Forest Park 與 LaSalle (其實只需要 $4,單程是 $2)。不像台北的捷運或香港的地鐵需要依照距離分別計費,這裡不管是坐多長的距離都是一樣的價錢,因此也只有入站的時候需要刷卡,到達目的地後便直接出站。
上了月台,只有幾個人在等車,清一色都是黑人,其中有數人不斷地看著我,讓我感到些許的不自在。講到芝加哥的黑人區就屬 South Chicago 最有名,是芝加哥中治安最差且最貧窮的地方,許多旅遊資訊中都建議旅客避免孤身前往。然而這裡並不是 South Chicago,因此就算周遭全圍繞著黑人,倒也還不擔心…聽到遠方傳來鐺鐺鏘鏘的聲音,電車來了,一般人會說這是芝加哥的捷運,但依照它古老的程度,我認為用電車來形容這個運輸系統比較不會感到矛盾。
可能是因為假日的關係,延途也只有幾位黑人陪伴。車廂延著一旁的道路前進,最後鑽進了地下,想必是已經進入市區。到了 LaSalle 之後,一出車站四周便是高聳的大樓,接著拿出事先印好的 Google Map 市區地圖,便開始步行前往我的第一個目的地「Sears Tower」,Sears Tower 算是世界數一數二的高樓,也是搭乘 Double Decker 的一個站點,可以算是來芝加哥的主要景點之一。原本應該喧鬧繁華的芝加哥因為週末而顯得冷清,但這倒是相當符合我的味口,可以寧靜的欣賞這座著名城市是相當不錯的體驗。
芝加哥是個以建築聞名的城市,集合各種文化、歷史、藝術於一身,各式各樣的建築延著河岸與湖岸建造。穿梭於城市街道之中,就有如置身於電影之中…走著走著,很快地到達了第一個目的地,站在 Sears Tower 底下的感覺跟站在台北 101 的感覺差不多,唯一的差別是這裡比較安靜,沒有台北街道此起彼落的喇叭聲。在 Sears Tower 底下就是搭乘 Double Decker 的地方,就在我環繞 Sears Tower 回到車站站牌旁之後,我決定改變我的旅遊方式..不搭巴士了,我要來一趟 Chicago 徒步半日遊…
我預計要去的景點依然不變,唯一的改變是不搭巴士而是用走的,一來省錢,二來可以讓我更仔細的觀賞這個城市的角落。
事實上,我預計去的幾個地方也並不很遠,走不到 20 分鐘,穿過了 Michigan Ave. 便到達了另一個人氣景點「Millennium Park」,果然這裡聚集了許多人潮,來自世界各地的遊客們爭先恐後地圍繞著 Cloud Gate 拍照。而在 Cloud Gate 身後的文具三兄弟也是相機們所囑目的焦點。
接著往湖畔走去,走過 Grant Park,來到密西根湖湖畔,壯觀的遊艇海滿佈整個湖面。現在想想,這些豪華遊艇的主人們正是搞壞全球的經濟的元兇之一…(?)
話說回來,看著這些遊艇,也難免嚮往著哪天我也可以徜徉在五大湖中,過著這種享受陽光的生活。
延著湖畔往北走,許多人騎著自行車來來往往,也有很多家長帶著小孩到此遊玩,這條自行車道一路往北延伸,走走停停過了約半個小時,來到了著名的 Navy Pier,這個地方感覺就像是一個兒童樂園,有許多小型的遊樂設施,也有很多餐飲店,適逢中午,因此我坐在一旁看著天真的小孩們東奔西跑,一邊填飽我的肚子…。在我的身後就是 Spirit of Chicago 號,搭乘這艘船可以暢遊 Chicago River,但印象中船票頗貴,因此當時的我也決定省下這筆錢,自行徒步欣賞 Chicago River 的河岸美景。
逛完了海軍碼頭,開始往市中心走去,回到了著名的「N. Michigan Ave」大道,大道的兩旁林立著各種時尚精品名店,櫥窗裡盡是華麗非凡的服飾、精品,但這些商品與隨後見到的河岸建築比較起來,明顯遜色了許多…
往南跨過 Chicago River,接著往西走進 E. Wacker Dr.。許多建築延著河岸建造,一棟一棟排列的相當整齊,河面上有許多船隻來來往往,遠遠地還可以聽到甲板上的解說員正一一描述著身旁所經過的建築與城市歷史。我走走停停地延著河岸前進,看到了在河岸陰涼處看書的女子、看到了成群的鴿子圍繞著市長雕像飛舞、看到了高架上的電車鏘鏘地通過橋樑…
接著我開始往南走,準備結束今日的芝加哥徒步遊,延途總有許多讓我駐足觀賞的建築物,有時站在路口等待紅綠燈,竟也是一種樂趣…
最後回到了昏黃的 LaSalle 地鐵站。等待電車的過程中,回想了一下…
今天,我在這個藝術城市裡,過了一個悠閒的美國午後…
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